Too often sweet potato butter tastes like cloyingly sweet mashed sweet potatoes. This recipe is my attempt to redeem it. The tart cherries provide acidity and depth, while the vanilla and cardamom offer a nice aromatic change from the expected cinnamon. This butter was one of a few southern preserves featured in the Preserves Pavilion at Slow Food Nation in 2008. It is delicious on biscuits, of course, but try it swirled into your oatmeal or as a filling for tarts or fried pies.

Makes about 8 cups

4 medium sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds), peeled and sliced 1 inch thick

8 ounces dried sour cherries (or 1 pound fresh)

1 (12-ounce) bottle of spicy ginger ale, preferably Blenheim’s

1 1/2 cups water

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Seeds and pulp from 1 vanilla bean

2 teaspoons cardamom

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

2 cups sugar

1/3 cup lemon juice

In a large, heavy saucepan, combine the sweet potatoes, cherries, ginger ale, water, and salt. Add the seeds from the vanilla bean to the saucepan along with the cardamom and lemon zest. Cover tightly and cook until the sweet potatoes are falling-apart tender. Add more water if needed to keep the sweet potatoes from burning.

Purée in a food processor or with an immersion blender. Over medium heat, stir in the sugar until dissolved, then stir in the lemon juice.

This butter can be stored in sterilized containers in the refrigerator for 1 month or can be frozen for up to 1 year. The National Center for Food Preservation advises against home canning of sweet potato butter.